Cartier ‘Love’: A Modern Icon of Commitment and Design
A collection of ‘Love’ bangles and rings, by Cartier. Estimates from £800-2,000. Jewellery, 6th February.
"Love has become too commercial, yet life without love is nothing — a fat zero. What modern people want are love symbols that look semi-permanent — or, at least, require a trick to remove. After all, love symbols should suggest an everlasting quality." – Aldo Cipullo
The fascinating story of the Cartier Love bracelet, a contemporary classic that has come to symbolise enduring romance and minimalist elegance. Designed in 1969 by Aldo Cipullo, the Love bracelet has adorned generations of style icons, and continues to be one of the most sought-after pieces of jewellery worldwide.
A Symbol of Bonded Love
Launched during the creative energy of New York in the 1960s and '70s, Cipullo’s vision was to reimagine love jewellery as something modern, sleek, and enduring. The bracelet’s oval form, which fits closely to the wrist, and the requirement of a miniature screwdriver to secure or remove it, spoke directly to ideas of commitment and permanence. Originally, buyers weren’t permitted to purchase a Love bracelet for themselves — it had to be given as a gift, reinforcing its symbolic intent.
"When you have function and design, married together, you always have a successful item." – Aldo Cipullo
When function meets design, you have an icon. Cipullo’s Love and Juste un Clou collections helped usher in a new era for Cartier, blending Minimalist design with bold modernity and cultural relevance.
A Design Born of Revolution
Cartier’s shift in the late 1960s was timely. The women’s liberation movement, pop art, and shifting gender norms called for jewellery that felt relevant and versatile. Cipullo’s designs, simple, industrial, and striking, were made to be worn day or night, by both women and men. The Love bracelet was an instant success. It became a marker of relationship status, akin to an engagement ring.
Original advertising campaign for the Love bracelet © Cartier
From Manhattan to Museums
The impact of Cipullo’s design is global and enduring:
Celebrity Appeal: Worn by the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Steve McQueen and Ali MacGraw, and Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton.
Pop Culture Status: Today, the Love bangle is a fixture in fashion and jewellery editorials — and the subject of romantic lore.
Exhibitions & Recognition: Cartier’s 2012 exhibition "Cartier & Aldo Cipullo, New York City in the 70s" celebrated his legacy in shaping the modern jewellery aesthetic.
Love, Locked in Time
Early pieces from the Love collection — especially those signed by Cipullo — are now highly collectible, while modern examples remain consistently in demand. In addition to bangles and rings, Cartier has since expanded the range to include necklaces, earrings, and cufflinks, all echoing the clean geometry of the original.
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