Cartier remains one of the most celebrated names in fine jewellery, admired for its distinctive style, technical brilliance and longstanding connection to royalty and society figures across the globe. From coronation pieces to red carpet favourites, Cartier jewellery continues to captivate collectors and connoisseurs alike.
At Chiswick Auctions, we are pleased to have offered a number of significant vintage Cartier suites in recent sales. In this article, we take a closer look at some of the maison’s most recognisable and collectable designs, including Diadea, Lanières and the iconic “C” de Cartier. These are pieces that have not only defined eras in design but continue to perform well at auction today.
In the second half of the 20th century, Cartier introduced the Diadea collection, inspired by a 1911 necklace created for the Russian Imperial Family. By this point, the maison had secured royal warrants from the courts of Spain, Siam, Greece and others, a testament to the brand’s exceptional craftsmanship and increasingly international presence.
The Diadea collection is defined by its leaf motif, expressed in white gold and diamonds, drawing on the organic elegance of early 20th-century Art Nouveau design. With flowing lines and delicate detailing, Diadea has remained a key part of Cartier’s heritage, with contemporary versions still paying homage to the original concept.
CARTIER Ι A DIAMOND 'DIADEA' NECKLACE AND BRACELET SUITE
Launched around the same period, Cartier’s Lanières collection was conceived with a minimalist aesthetic. Characterised by a series of diamond-set square links, crafted in yellow, white or pink gold, these pieces echoed the form of straps or lanyards. The design was a sophisticated translation of everyday forms into finely executed jewellery, much like the celebrated Juste un Clou collection.
Lanières pieces aligned with the growing popularity of tennis bracelets and necklaces in the late 1970s. They drew inspiration from Art Deco design, with a focus on geometry and streamlined form, often using platinum to complement the brilliance of diamonds. While production of Lanières has since ceased, its clean lines and versatile styling make it highly collectable.
CARTIER | A DIAMOND 'LANIÈRES' NECKLACE AND BRACELET SUITE
By the mid-20th century, Cartier introduced the “C” de Cartier collection, featuring an interlocking “C” motif that quickly became synonymous with the maison’s identity. A tribute to founder Louis-François Cartier, the design was bold and modern, setting a new tone in contrast to earlier, more delicate styles.
Perhaps the most enduring design to incorporate the motif is the Cartier Love bracelet, launched in 1969. Designed to symbolise commitment and exclusivity, the bracelet’s screw-fastening mechanism captured the idea of ‘locking in’ love. Twenty-five pairs were famously gifted to celebrity couples at its debut, including Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton.
The “C” de Cartier collection continues to evolve, with fresh interpretations of this now-iconic design appearing regularly across the maison’s offering.
CARTIER Ι A DIAMOND 'C' NECKLACE AND EARRING SUITE
Estimate £4,000 - £6,000
Cartier jewellery remains one of the most sought-after categories within the secondary market. Its enduring popularity, exceptional craftsmanship and association with important historic and cultural moments contribute to strong results at auction. Pieces from collections such as Diadea, Lanières and the “C” de Cartier motif are particularly prized.
For sellers, consigning Cartier to auction can yield significant returns, particularly when working with experienced specialists who understand the nuances of provenance, rarity and presentation. For buyers, auctions provide the opportunity to acquire discontinued or vintage Cartier designs that are no longer available at retail.
At Chiswick Auctions, our jewellery sales regularly feature pieces by Cartier. We welcome enquiries from collectors and those looking to sell or expand their collections.
Contact the Jewellery department, Email raphaelle.godfrey@chiswickauctions.co.uk or submit an Online Valuation