A Century of Chanel Tweed: Style, Elegance, and Enduring Value at Auction
First introduced in 1924 by Coco Chanel, the iconic tweed jacket has stood the test of time. Nearly a century later, it remains a symbol of effortless elegance and refined style, a staple of sophisticated wardrobes around the globe. When Chanel first unveiled the design, its pared-back structure and subtly masculine edge were considered revolutionary.
This red tweed jacket and skirt from the 1980s shows the longevity of Chanel’s designs. Realised including premium £575, February 2019
The Practical Elegance of Chanel Tweed
Chanel herself was rarely seen without her signature jacket, often paired with a coordinating skirt. “Nothing is more beautiful than freedom of the body,” she once said, a sentiment that resonates through the jacket’s clean lines, roomy sleeves, and impeccable tailoring. Lined with silk and weighted with a fine chain to ensure it hangs perfectly, the jacket marked a definitive break from the restrictive, corseted styles of earlier decades.
One striking example from the 1980s, a classic red tweed jacket and skirt, realised £575 (including premium) at auction in February 2019. A testament to the enduring appeal of Chanel’s design, it reflects both heritage and timeless style.
A modern example of the tweed suit from 2017. Realised £475 including premium, February 2019
From Highlands to Haute Couture
The jacket was born during an especially formative chapter of Chanel’s life. During her decade-long relationship with the Duke of Westminster, one of Britain’s wealthiest men, she spent many seasons at his Scottish estate, joining his celebrated shooting parties, an activity typically reserved for men at the time.
Winston Churchill, a frequent guest, once wrote in 1927:
“Coco… fishes from morn till night, and in two months has killed 50 salmon. She is very agreeable — really a great and strong being, fit to rule a man or an Empire.”
It was in this rugged setting that Chanel reimagined the Duke’s traditional tweeds. She commissioned a Scottish mill to create bespoke weaves softened with silk, which she transformed into feminine silhouettes suited to both elegance and practicality.
A Style Reinvented Through Generations
Although the jacket gained popularity among Parisian women in the 1920s and 30s, it was Chanel’s post-war comeback in 1954 that truly ignited its global influence. The American market, in particular, embraced the look, none more so than Jacqueline Kennedy.
Despite the political optics of wearing French fashion, the First Lady famously had her Chanel garments assembled in the United States using original materials and patterns sent directly from Paris. On the day of President Kennedy’s assassination in 1963, she wore her now-iconic pink Chanel suit, refusing to remove the bloodstained ensemble until the following day so that, in her words, “they could see what they had done to Jack.” The jacket now resides in the U.S. National Archives.
Tweed now features in Chanel’s bags including this backpack. Realised £3,250 including premium, February 2019
Modern Value and Auction Appeal
Chanel’s tweed continues to evolve, now appearing in handbags and accessories. A contemporary tweed backpack, for example, achieved £3,250 (including premium) at auction in February 2019 — a reflection of the brand’s growing crossover between luxury and collectability.
Even recent examples of the iconic suit hold strong auction value. A 2017 ensemble fetched £475 (including premium), showing that Chanel’s legacy is not only timeless but remains accessible to discerning buyers seeking both style and smart investment.
Thinking of Selling a Chanel Jacket or Tweed Accessory?
Chanel remains a highly sought-after name at auction. If you own vintage Chanel, whether it's a classic tweed jacket, skirt suit, or accessory, now may be the ideal time to obtain a professional auction valuation. Whether you’re looking to part with a single piece or a full collection, our specialists can offer expert insights into its market value.
To receive a complimentary auction valuation, contact our team today.