Frederic Koechly Ι A diamond, ruby and sapphire brooch, circa 1890

Of openwork design, decorated with intertwined foliage collet-set with a ruby and blue sapphire oval cabochon, highlighted with rose-cut diamonds, safety pin clutch, maker's mark, Russian assay mark, length 3.0cm, width 2.3cm, weight 13.8grs, maker's fitted box

The item has been XRF tested and found to be the brooch 18ct gold and the pin 9ct gold.

Koechly Frederic Christian or Friedrich Köchli (1839-1909) was a Swiss born goldsmith to the Imperial Court of Russia, as court jeweller to Empress Maria Fyodorovna, wife of Tsar Alexander III and mother to Tsar Nicholas II. His business was located at Gorokhovaya Street, 17 in St. Petersburg. He exhibited in St. Petersburg in 1870 and at the Exposition Universelle in Paris in 1900, where he served on the jury. His work is characterised by meticulous craftsmanship and luxurious design.

“Assaying And Hallmarking in Russia (1700-1946)” by A.Ivanov, 1928