Chiswick Auctions has been proud to offer fine jewellery in its dedicated sales for many years, with a number of exceptional pieces by Van Cleef & Arpels (VCA) sold alongside other major jewellers. This renowned French house has long been admired for its technical innovation, poetic creativity, and exquisite craftsmanship.
The story began in 1895 with the marriage of Alfred Van Cleef, son of a diamond cutter, to Estelle Arpels, daughter of a dealer in precious stones. A year later, Alfred joined forces with his father-in-law Salomon Arpels to establish the Maison Van Cleef & Arpels. In 1906, they opened their first boutique at 22 Place Vendôme in Paris, a location that has remained their spiritual home.
By the mid-20th century, Van Cleef & Arpels had expanded globally with boutiques in the United States, Japan and China, becoming one of the world’s most recognisable luxury jewellery houses.
Van Cleef & Arpels has been at the forefront of jewellery design, introducing techniques and forms that transformed the art of fine jewellery. One of the most notable innovations came in 1933 with the patenting of the ‘serti invisible’, or invisible setting, which allowed gemstones to be mounted without any visible metal between them.
Another significant creation from the same year was the Minaudière, inspired by French-American socialite Florence Jay Gould. Charles Arpels developed it as an elegant, compartmentalised case for the modern woman’s essentials. We were pleased to offer one of these rare pieces in our May 2019 sale.
A sapphire, diamond and styptor minaudière, by Van Cleef & Arpels for Asprey, circa 1945
Sold in May 2019 for £1,600 including buyer’s premium
Nature has long been a central theme in Van Cleef & Arpels’ work. The house has drawn inspiration from flowers, leaves, butterflies and birds, capturing their beauty in graceful, wearable designs.
A gem-set giardinetto brooch, 1959 by Van Cleef & Arpels
Sold in September 2022 for £6,875 including buyer’s premium
The butterfly, symbolic of the soul and the fleetingness of life, is a recurring motif in VCA’s jewellery.
A sapphire and diamond butterfly brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels
Sold in March 2022 for £1,750 including Buyer's premium
In the 1950s, as tastes shifted towards lightness and motion in jewellery, Van Cleef & Arpels led the way with volutes, spirals and abstract motifs. Their tourbillon earrings, sold in our June 2022 sale, beautifully exemplify this dynamic period.
A pair of sapphire earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels
Sold in June 2022 for £9,000 including buyer’s premium
Over the decades, Van Cleef & Arpels has created numerous recognisable collections including Perlée, Ballerinas, Passe-Partout and Zippers. But none is as iconic as the Alhambra, launched in 1968. Inspired by the four-leaf clover motif found in the tiles of the Alhambra Palace in Granada, it symbolises luck, harmony and timeless elegance.
A white gold and mother-of-pearl 'Vintage Alhambra' necklace, 2015, by Van Cleef & Arpels
Sold in September 2021 for £12,500, including buyer's premium
In the 1920s, Van Cleef & Arpels also introduced the Touch Wood collection. These pieces, crafted in polished wood and gold, were said to bring good fortune. We were delighted to offer an example in our 2019 sale.
A wood and gold brooch, by Van Cleef & Arpels, 1980
Sold in February 2019 for £2,600, including buyer's premium
In addition to its jewellery, Van Cleef & Arpels has produced elegant timepieces since the early 20th century. Their watches blend mechanical precision with the poetic style for which the Maison is known. Recent Chiswick Auctions Fine Watch sales have included some excellent examples.
A Van Cleef & Arpels men's 18k Yellow Gold Quartz bracelet watch, circa 2010
Sold for £3,000 including buyer's premium
Whether you own a vintage Alhambra necklace, a minaudière, or a butterfly brooch, our Jewellery specialists would be delighted to offer a complimentary valuation and discuss upcoming sales.
Contact Raphaelle Godfrey, Head of Jewellery at Chiswick Auctions
raphaelle.godfrey@chiswickauctions.co.uk
Or submit an online valuation