Historic Cartier Jewellery and Brilliantly British Creations at Auction
Chiswick Auctions’ first Jewellery sale of 2021 delivered exceptional results, confirming the continuing strength of the market for antique and designer jewellery at auction. The sale achieved 174% sold by value and 85% sold by lot, a strong indication that demand remains high among collectors and connoisseurs alike.
A rare Cartier Art Deco brooch leads the sale
The highlight of the auction was an Art Deco diamond and rock crystal brooch by Cartier, circa 1925. Originally owned by New York socialite Augusta McCagg, the piece was offered with a pre-sale estimate of £12,000 to £15,000. Following intense bidding from a dozen telephone lines and online buyers, it achieved £150,000 including Buyer’s Premium, setting a standout result for the West London auction house.
Lot 189: An Art Deco diamond and rock crystal lapel brooch, by Cartier, circa 1925
Sold £150,000 (including premium)
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Sarah Duncan, Head of Jewellery, commented:
“This Cartier brooch is a superb example of how Indian aesthetics began influencing Cartier’s design language in the early 20th century. The monochrome palette, combined with the pioneering use of rock crystal, exemplifies the best of Cartier’s Art Deco output. With a strong provenance and having never appeared on the open market, it was a very attractive proposition for our international buyers.”
John Nicholas Brown and Augusta McCagg and party in Egypt, 1923. Image courtesy of Brown University
The story behind the brooch
Augusta McCagg was born in New York in 1895 to a prominent family connected to the Kings, Fishs, Browns and Vanderbilts. A prominent figure in American society, Augusta attended the 1924 wedding of Cornelia Vanderbilt as one of her bridesmaids and was active in wartime efforts, leading the Red Cross ambulance service in Newport during the Second World War. She never married and passed away in 1965, leaving behind a collection of jewellery that reflected a life of wealth and influence. Her Cartier brooch and other pieces were consigned by her descendants living in the UK.
Among the other highlights from the family collection were:
Lot 183: An early 20th-century Tiffany & Co. pocket watch. Sold for £4,700 including premium (estimate £1,200–1,500).
Lot 188: An Art Deco diamond and sapphire ring, approx. 3 carats. Sold for £33,750 including premium (estimate £7,000–9,000).
Cornelia Vanderbilt collecting her bridesmaid Augusta McCagg (centre) from the station before the wedding, 1924. Image courtesy of the Library of Congress.
Celebrating contemporary British design
The auction also featured a carefully curated Private London Collection of works by the celebrated English jeweller Wendy Ramshaw (1939–2018), offered by a personal friend of the artist. The collection was 100% sold, exceeding 230% of its pre-sale estimate.
Wendy Ramshaw is renowned for her sculptural jewellery and innovative ring towers, with works held in major institutions including the V&A, the British Museum and the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Lot 1: A gold and diamond ring tower by Wendy Ramshaw, 1986. Sold for £3,250 including premium.
Lot 3: A silver and moonstone ring tower. Sold for £2,176 including premium (estimate £500–700).
Strong results for diamond jewellery
Certified diamonds continue to command strong interest. Among the standout pieces:
Lot 108: A 5.47 carat step-cut diamond ring. Sold for £28,750 including premium (estimate £15,000–20,000).
Lot 97: A 4.10 carat pear-shaped Fancy Yellow diamond ring. Sold for £31,250 including premium (estimate £18,000–22,000).
Lot 92: A 5.75 carat pear-shaped diamond pendant. Sold for £16,250 including premium (estimate £10,000–15,000).
These results reflect both the quality of the pieces on offer and the enduring appeal of fine antique and certified diamond jewellery among discerning collectors.
Lot 1: A gold and diamond ring tower by Wendy Ramshaw, 1986
Sold £3,250 (including premium)
Interested in the value of your Cartier or antique jewellery?
Contact our Jewellery Department for a free and confidential valuation, or submit your enquiry using our online valuation form.