A Century of Chanel Tweed: Style, Elegance and Enduring Value at Auction

First introduced in 1924 by Coco Chanel, the iconic tweed jacket has stood the test of time. Nearly a century later, it remains a symbol of effortless elegance and refined style, a staple of sophisticated wardrobes across the world. When Chanel first unveiled the design, its pared-back structure and subtly masculine edge were considered revolutionary.

This red tweed jacket and skirt from the 1980s shows the longevity of Chanel’s designs. Realised including premium £575, February 2019

The Practical Elegance of Chanel Tweed

Chanel herself was rarely seen without her signature jacket, often paired with a coordinating skirt. “Nothing is more beautiful than freedom of the body,” she once said, a sentiment that resonates through the jacket’s clean lines, roomy sleeves and impeccable tailoring. Lined with silk and weighted with a fine chain to ensure it hangs perfectly, the jacket marked a definitive break from the restrictive, corseted styles of earlier decades.

A classic red tweed jacket and skirt from the 1980s realised £575 (including premium) at auction in February 2019, a testament to the enduring appeal of Chanel’s design and its combination of heritage and timeless style.

A modern example of the tweed suit from 2017. Realised £475 including premium, February 2019

From Highlands to Haute Couture

The origins of the Chanel tweed jacket lie in an especially formative chapter of Coco Chanel’s life. During her decade-long relationship with the Duke of Westminster, she spent many seasons at his Scottish estate, joining his celebrated shooting parties, an activity typically reserved for men.

Winston Churchill, a frequent guest, once wrote in 1927: “Coco… fishes from morn till night, and in two months has killed 50 salmon. She is very agreeable — really a great and strong being, fit to rule a man or an Empire.”

It was during these visits that Chanel reimagined the Duke’s traditional tweeds. She commissioned a Scottish mill to create bespoke weaves softened with silk, which she then transformed into feminine silhouettes suited to both elegance and practicality.

A Style Reinvented Through Generations

Although the jacket gained popularity among Parisian women in the 1920s and 30s, it was Chanel’s post-war comeback in 1954 that truly ignited its global influence. The American market, in particular, embraced the look, with Jacqueline Kennedy among its most iconic ambassadors.

Despite the political sensitivity of wearing French fashion, the First Lady famously had her Chanel garments assembled in the United States using materials and patterns sent from Paris. On the day of President Kennedy’s assassination in 1963, she wore her now-iconic pink Chanel suit, which she refused to remove until the following day. The jacket remains in the U.S. National Archives, frozen in history.

Tweed now features in Chanel’s bags including this backpack. Realised £3,250 including premium, February 2019

Chanel Tweed in the Modern Market

Chanel’s tweed continues to evolve and today features in a wide range of accessories and ready-to-wear. A contemporary tweed backpack achieved £3,250 (including premium) at auction in February 2019, reflecting the brand’s crossover between luxury fashion and collectability.

Even recent examples of the classic suit hold strong auction appeal. A 2017 ensemble fetched £475 (including premium), reinforcing the idea that Chanel’s legacy remains relevant and desirable for modern collectors.

Thinking of Selling a Chanel Jacket or Tweed Accessory?

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To arrange a valuation, please contact: fashion@chiswickauctions.co.uk