A KASHMIRI EMBROIDERED ANGARKHA (LONG-SLEEVED OUTER ROBE)
Kashmir, Northern India, 19th century

The elegant man’s robe made of yellow wool, finely embroidered in polychrome silks with alternating rows of small floral clusters, the parda (chest panel) following the inner front panel, closing from left to right, red ribbon fastenings at three points, the lapel, front, hem, and cuffs applied with fine Benares scrolling floral borders of gold and silver thread, red and black silk, the front collar overlaid with very fine silver thread border of chevron design edged with decorative rows of toggle and loop, matching cuff fastening, edged in bias-cut red silk heat-pressed with a chevron design, lined in fine green pashmina wool, later hidden side pockets, slit armholes, the lower back left embroidered in white silk thread with the figure '900000' in Urdu numerals, the word barakat (blessing) and the number '9', next to a stamp in black ink of an Indian astral crown beneath a fringed chattri (parasol) entirely stitched by hand, 139cm long.

The finely embroidered wool cloth echoes block-printed cotton examples of warmer regions, implying a cultural link between Indian artisans and their response to foreign fashion's demands. The emblem of the astral crown beneath the chattri denotes a connection to a royal toshakhana (lit. 'treasure house', or a place where princes used to store gifts and emblems of honor that they received for their posterity). The impressive quality of the wool, the finesse of the embroidery, and the luxurious details, even in hidden areas, mark this angarkha robe as an outstanding luxury product of an affluent member of an Indian court.