A MAGNIFICENT METAL THREAD-EMBROIDERED SILK COVERLET
Possibly Eastern Europe, Austro-Hungarian Empire, late 19th century

Of large square shape, the centre, four corners, and ruched outer border of buff floral silk damask, the inner borders of changeant eau de nil silk taffeta, the field finely worked in gold and silver metallic thread embroidery in a variety of stitches with Renaissance-style lobed palmettes of stylised flowers within a contiguous grid, stems and floral highlights presented in variegated green chenille thread, the broad borders of formal floral scrolls stemming from a central urn, featuring highlights in shaded ivory and pale pink silks, the corners enhanced with diagonal floral urns, the joints applied with metallic thread lace in swags, crenelated twisted buff silk fringe, lined in green and white half-silk, 235cm x 215cm.

The wide loom width of the damask, the quality of the taffeta, the use of chenille thread, and the disciplined design of this impressive coverlet point to a European production steeped in the knowledge of Italian velvets as well as Ottoman silks. The opulent design and the heightened use of metallic threads echo Ottoman furnishing textiles, as does the ‘snap-shot’ framing. However, contemporary Ottoman pieces would have employed raised work cardboard applique, here missing. A piece so conversant with both Eastern and Western textile traditions confirms the cross-cultural influences present in the ex-Austro-Hungarian territories, acting as a geographic, commercial, and artistic bridge between two worlds apart.