7 bottles Louis Carillon et Fils Puligny-Montrachet 2004

93 points John Gilman

The premier cru Puligny vineyard of Perrières has always been one of my favorite in the village, and in my experience the Carillon version made from 54 year-old vines has always been among the finest examples. The 2004 is brilliant juice in the making, as the youthfully tight nose offers up a mélange of pink grapefruit and lemon, spring flowers, a touch of vanillin oak and a smorgasbord of mineral tones redolent of pulverized stone. On the palate the wine is deep, tight and full-bodied, with racy acidity, a rock solid core of fruit, beautiful focus, and a very, very long, beautifully balanced finish. Other than the stoniness, there is not a whole lot of nascent complexity in the Perrières today, but this wine should emerge to dazzle the senses in another five years or so. There is plenty of structure here, but the overall balance is so fine that all the constituent components are seamlessly buried in the whole. It should prove to be quite long-lived. (Drink between 2010-2030) (1/2006)