A PAIR OF GOLD SPINEL-ENCRUSTED CEREMONIAL EARRINGS (KARANPHUL JHUMKA)
Rajasthan, North-Western India, early 20th century

The long ornamental hair clip bands (sankali) featuring rectangular clusters of spinels and foil-backed glass beads in the typical Indian kundan setting, caparisoned with golden beads, at the top of the hair clip bands a drop-shaped medallion set with clusters of stones in the shape of a bird, the pair of earrings featuring lobed floral medallions (karanphul jhumka) encrusted with faceted spinels, framed within a delicate crown of seed pearls, and enhanced with reverse drop-shaped pendants with small spinels and gold beads, each 17.5cm long.

For similar examples of this type of North Indian ceremonial encrusted jewellery, please see Oppi Untracht, Traditional Jewellery of India, Thames & Hudson, 2008, p. 215, cat. 421; p. 222, cat. 446; and p. 224, cat. 455.