29th Oct, 2021 14:00

Islamic & Indian Art

 
  Lot 359
 

A CENTRAL ASIAN GEM-ENCRUSTED GOLD BROOCH
Bukhara, Uzbekistan, late 19th - 20th century

A CENTRAL ASIAN GEM-ENCRUSTED GOLD BROOCH
Bukhara, Uzbekistan, late 19th - 20th century

The central gold portion designed as a composite floral arabesque medallion with an ogival arch-shaped end filled with a pearl rosette, encrusted with low-grade emeralds, tourmalines and spinels, the sides caparisoned with seed pearls, and short pendants with pearls, rounded gem beads and granulated clusters, the back with a finely engraved gold plaque repeating Timurid-style arabesques and interlocking vegetal scrolls, 6.5cm high.

Uzbek jewellery is known for its use of warm-toned gold, colourful semiprecious stones, and pearls. These jewels often draw their inspiration from the two souls of Central Asian civilisations: the nomadic soul leads to the need for light and easily wearable jewellery accessories; the settled soul, instead, feeds directly into the well-rooted heritage of Timurid culture and art, bringing into these creations exquisitely engraved arabesque and vegetal trellis, and abundant use of unevenly-cut semiprecious stones. Some materials are local, whilst others are imported, mainly from Russia.

For two comparative examples of Bukhara jewellery presenting the same quintessential features of our brooch, please see the Israel Museum collection in Jerusalem. Both their Head Ornament (Balgak) [B10.0880] and Parkhane Forehead Ornament [B64.12.4207] present the typical pendant clusters of pearls, beads and granulation, which decorate the sides of our brooch.

Sold for £1,250

Includes Buyer's Premium


 

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